Does it make sense to try surfing when you only have one day? I wasn’t sure. After an hour of theory, mainly what not to do in order not to kill yourself, we headed out with our instructors.
And as it turned out, it did work! Even if you’re just surfing a wave for a couple of seconds, it is so much fun. The key is getting the timing right and to know which waves to let pass and which ones to jump onto.
What I didn’t know: As a newbie, you’re constantly scraping your knees on the board when climbing back up after falling down. And also: This. Stuff. Is. Exhausting. I had no idea. It might sound naive, but – since I feel very at home in the water – I was somehow expecting this to be super relaxed. Just paddle out there, chill a bit, let the waves go by and then, when a) there’s a big wave and b) you’re in the mood, jump on your board, have fun. In reality, padding with your arms, fighting the waves, while lying on your belly, your upper body held up your hopefully existing abs, is straining. This is a proper sport and the actual surfing, if it happens, is the reward.
And even if I never made it for more than a few seconds at a time, I totally get the hang of it now. Will definitely go on.